Ken Patrick Trail

Ken Patrick Trail

The Ken Patrick Trail has some moderate ups and downs along the mostly forest hike. There are some nice views of Mt. Hayen while hiking around the rim that hugs the area it sits. Nankoweap Creek is far below. After a couple of miles of wandering through the forest the trail comes to the Cape Royal Road. If someone in the group wanted to sit and read a book and relax in the car they could pick up hikers here and make it a short little hike. If hikers want to go father, just cross the road and keep hiking to the end of the trail. (the North Kaibab Trailhead). Some other options would be to include the Uncle Jim loop during your hike. Uncle Jim by itself is 5 miles, but about a mile of that is shared with the North Kaibab Trail. I shared this hike with my hiking partner Bo Beck and 2 other hikers, Gary and Kayla.

Ken Patrick Trail

Esplanade

The Esplanade

As we hiked down from the Bill Hall Trail we marveled at the hoodoos far down on the Esplanade. The target for our hike was Thunder River, but we were enthralled by the sandstone. The various shaped hoodoos were all around us as we navigated through a stone path strewn with rock statues. The pot holes were perfect bowls holding yesterday’s rain and a welcome site on the slickrock oven of the Esplanade. Even in the winter the sun baked down on the rock. In the summer time hiking on the Esplanade is not wise, but our November trip was delightful.

The Esplanade

Thunder River

Halloween Trip:
Crazy Jug Point was so close we had to go and check it out before heading to Monument Point. The view from there is great and worth and drive into the forest (even during the deer hunt!)

We headed to Forest Road 292A and the Bill Hall Trail located on the east side of Monument Point. There were 18 cars there (I think was the total). We parked and headed slightly up hill a bit before the trail flattened. (This is a nice finish after hiking out). The Bill Hall Trail is steep and rocky, but seems to have fairly good maintence. The other option is the Thunder River Trail, but its 5 miles longer (saves a good deal of elevation and is a better choice for bad knees). Again the dirt of the trail was dry and good even after that deluge of water friday night. We passed a group that was almost out.

The trail switchbacks so its not too awful going up or down, but a pack does make it more difficult for sure. There is one short scrambling section but the rest is straight forward hiking.

It does not take very long to get down the trail and onto the Esplanade where we camped. There were lots of pot holes to filter water from on the Esplanade and we took advantage of a couple of them. We found a great camp that suited us both. I was tucked in the hoodoos where I wanted to be, and Bo was on the other side of a hoodoo in the wide open flat area where he likes to be. It was a great campsite. We almost camped at Surprise Valley but we were glad we chose the Esplanade.

We had lots of day light left to set up camp and explore a bit before dark. The weather was great and never rained again. We had little wind and the days and nights were warm with the mornings being a bit chilly.

Sunday we headed out to Thunder River. We hiked down to Surprise Valley, really glad we did not decided to camp there since it would be a pain to carry a pack out of there. The trail is again quite steep, much like the Bill Hall Trail to the Esplanade, but no where as much of an effort. You know Bo though he still carried a good sized pack for the day hiking. Surprise Valley is pretty barren and a desert scape of cactus and flatter lands. It would not be pretty camping but there are lots of soft, flat spots. Its nice hiking there so you can get some speed going on this part.

The drop into Thunder River is again steep. Its no where near as long of a descent as into Surprise Valley from the Esplanade or to the Esplanade from Monument Point, but its a respectable descent.

About Mid-way down the Trail Thunder Springs is visible. It’s magnificent and the trail goes right to the spring, and along side much of it. You are able to get to the spring to filter water, which we did.

This is where we made a rash decision. It was so early in the day that we decided to not go to Thunder River and Tapeats Creek and head to Deer Creek all in one day so we could go and hike another day hike on the rim and see Point Imperial and Timp Point.

Don’t do this in the winter! The days are too short.

It took about an hour to filter water and I took a lot of shots. We had lunch and headed out to Deer Creek. We quickly made it out and into Surprise Valley – really rushing — but its a long way.

We got to the rocks right above Deer Springs where we could hear the water. We tried to figure out about what time it was and calculate how long it would take to safely get to the Colorado River and back to camp. We decided it was not a safe thing to try and wished we spent the time enjoying Tapeats instead. We were not sure of the time since it was Arizona, Daylight Savings Time and our GPS was off 2 hours one way or the other before all that. The sun told us however it was time to head back.

We got back up to the Esplanade with plenty of daylight. We did a LOT of elevation change that day! We decided that we just did not want to do the same path we had just did so we would hike out in the morning and do the options we wanted to do just as if we had done Deer Springs all the way.

The hike out of the Esplande is wonderful and gorgeous. Once leaving the sandstone the trail gets steep, which is not the funnest with a pack but it switchbacks and is very doable.

We had lots of day light left so we headed over to Timp Point. This view point is outstanding and probably better than Crazy Jug. It’s about .75 mile round trip out to the view area.

Then we drove around the forest roads looking for the way to highway 67, with Point Superior in mind. We got there and the sign said 16-18? miles on the dirt road. We might make it before dark but decided not to risk the gas situation. We had done a lot of driving in the forest and the gas gage was on low.

We headed to the VC area instead and walked around and looked at the smoggy view. The view was clear when we were down in the canyon, but even this time of year we had smoggy views the entire time from the rim.

A longer day Thunder River and Deer Creek are doable in a day or if you camp at Surprise Valley it would be a okay for a day trip, but still hard and rushed. I suggest doing the full-meal-deal instead. Go to Thunder River and Tapeats Creek and relax. Don’t get too greedy like I did.

http://www.zionnational-park.com/grand-canyon.htm/

South Canyon

First task is to find the elusive South Canyon trailhead. From Fredonia: Drive highway 89A, bypassing the turnoff on highway 67 to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Turn right between mile posts 559 and 560. This is House Rock Buffalo Ranch Road. Continue on the dirt road for about 20 miles then turn left onto Road #632. After another mile and half turn right. The road is usually passable with a 2WD, but after rains or snow the road can become difficult even with a 4WD. The last 2 miles are the worst.

There were 4 of us in our party. My usual hiking partner and best friend Bo, and two others we had met on the net; Doc and his son Pepe. We walked (Bo of course ran) to the edge of the canyon and peered over the side. Our trip was the last weekend in January 2005 and we were set for a three day backpack to the Colorado River. The air was brisk and the forcast was for rain and cold, but I felt comfortable in my warm hi-tech attire and there were no complaints from anyone.

Bo led the way as usual, always setting a good pace and providing excellent route finding for the rest of the group. Doc and Pepe preferred to hike slower and stayed behind us following our footsteps and taking a lot of photo breaks. The initial scramble down into South Canyon was not as bad as I expected. I was afraid we would be in for the loose terrain we found on the Lava Falls Trail in Toroweap. We started down the chimney and in less than an hour we were on the canyon floor. The start of the hike was uneventful and sprouted comments like … “there must be better views ahead.”

That there was! We were lucky enough to hike South Canyon when the water was flowing and the gentle, clear stream running over the bedrock was wonderful. We passed many waterfalls, large and small. I loved the nature-made artistic fountains that would have cost a fortune to have in our yards. Our trip in was relaxed, stopping often to take photos, to have lunch and to just enjoy the scenery and laugh.

Closer to the river, there was relentless boulder hopping, as we went down in elevation. The hike down is without a doubt the easy part of this adventure! Beware, what you go down you must go back up!

Before long you will hear the loud roar of the Colorado River. Where South Canyon meets the Colorado is a set of rapids, so its noisy. Soon you will get your first peek of the river. Follow the cairns and the beaten path and you will drop down onto a sandy beach. Note there is quite a bit of bouldering and narrow paths on this hike so carry as little as possible. Continue to the next beach where you can set up camp. (Although its noisy at this camp due to the rapids)

The second day we set out hiking. To find the trail to Stanton’s Cave, climb up the rock fall at the back of the campground. We set out along the river and due to the high water level it was a scary and dangerous scramble in some spots. (According to 3 of us! Bo was happy to dance around it. Never go hiking with a rock climber if you dont want to go scarey places! ~laughing~) Doc and Pepe chose to stay at camp and rest after looking at the trail we chose and they were exhausted from the hike in. Bo and I set out to find Vasey’s Paradise, a wonderful set of waterfalls roaring out of the side of the mountain. Also visit Stanton’s Cave (a natural cave), the nearby smaller man-made cave with bolts and wires in front where a dam was set to be built at one time, and further down river (on the other side of the river) is the Redwall Cavern.

Before dark Bo ran (along that slippery slope) down to Vasey’s to get some fresh spring water, filtered it and brought back plenty for the night and the trip back.

The rain chased us into the tents at dark even though we did not want to go yet. It turned out to be good, at least for me because I slept until I was handed a hot cup of postum in the morning. Still groggy after a good night sleep (rare for me in such a place) I spilled it on my bag and pad. Bummer.. but with all the other wet gear from the rain it just sort of blended in and was not so bad.

We set out at 10am to head back to the vehicles. We followed the same path we took to come on. The uphill climb was steady the whole way and quite an invigorating hike. Bo filtered a little more water from the stream and put everyone’s heavy stuff in his pack before heading up to the rim. (He likes to carry rocks uphill! Don’t feel too sorry for him) The last push out to the top of the rim was tough, but nothing like I thought. (Again thinking of Lava Falls!) We were at the top after only a couple of very brief rests. It took us 5 hours for the hike out (from campground to the rim) with a stop for lunch included. I might become a hiker yet!

Thanks guys for the trip! It was a blast!

Grand Canyon River Trip

The Trip of a Lifetime

 The Grand Canyon is just what it implies, “Grand!” For many folks their experience of one of the most visited National Parks in America is a scenic drive through the park, a short hike to one of the many viewpoints, a trip to the visitor center, dinner at the lodge and hitting a shop or two for souvenirs.   Would you trade that classic trip for one that turns your long silky hair into a muddy mess of dreadlocks?  How about sleeping on the ground for weeks or taking a bath in forty-five degree water which is cold enough to give you “brain freeze”. How about never getting up early enough to beat the early risers to even one hot cup of coffee?   Sound like fun?  If you said no, then you have not been on a boat through the Grand Canyon!  Floating through the enormous gorge is the trip of a lifetime! The exhilaration of roaring world-class rapids turns the stomach of some and completely excites others into a wild frenzy of whooping and hollering.  After successfully running a rapid, the excitement and fear fades into concern for others as the trailing vessels pass through the churning turmoil, tossed about by the enormous power of water with passengers screaming in either delight or fear.  Between the violent chaos there is the placidity of still water. This is the time to soak in the intense beauty and the remarkable geology of the canyon. Magnificent towering walls held the waters course as we relaxed and enjoyed the serenity of the canyon.   On our journey we were fortunate enough to be on the river with trip-leader Monte and the most experienced group of “river rats” that one would ever imagine.  We set out on this trip in early spring when the weather was unpredictable, but fortunately it was warm and prevented hypothermia from setting in as massive waves broke over the top of us, dousing us in frigid water. Each day we would pull into a sandy beach before night-fall and quickly set up camp before daylight dwindled.  As soon as the boats were docked the first task was an organized process that was always accomplished in short order. From an elaborate kitchen, dishwashing table, fire pan to a concealed latrine with an incredible view of the river, everything had its place.  Each of us had the opportunity to be chef during our trip and fishing lines were cast in hope of a fresh fish dinner. The best part of the trip was after the sun had set, and chilly air drew us into a tight circle around the fire where river adventures of the past were told by gifted storytellers and seasoned river runners O.C and Jack. These men were delightful Grand Canyon veterans with white beards, soft- spoken words and jolly personalities.  Images from their yarns seemed to dance in the firelight as they would spin their tales as only a master of stories can.  Around the campfire camaraderie grew as Jimmy and both Tommy’s sang to us and kept the laughter flowing. As eyelids finally grew heavy we made our way to our nightly accommodations where we laid quietly looking up at the dark sky, spilt over with brilliant stars.  The magical sound of the river cradled our tired bodies to sleep each night. In the morning we always awoke to the cackling of Tommy’s laugh and the warmth of his roaring fire.  After breakfast we packed the gear back onto our fleet of seven watercrafts and began another day. We would often camp where we could see other groups run the rapids. It sent fear through the group as we watched as a man was thrown from the back of the boat, hit the oarsman on the top of the head and then bounced out of the boat and fortunately, quickly fished out of the frigid and turbulent waves of emerald green water he had fallen into. Both authors had our own close calls as well.   Prior to the stretch of river known as Deubendorff, the rapids had not been really intimidating to me, in fact, the rowers were hitting them so smooth it was like a gentle roller coaster ride.  I would get wet of course, but it seemed quite safe on the big raft and in the hands of experienced rowers.  Perhaps I was getting lax and not holding on tight enough, or maybe no matter how tight I held on it would not have mattered.  In the end the giant wave that engulfed me won the battle.  I never knew what hit me until my body was draped over the boat and my face was almost in the water. Luckily before I plunged into the depths of the Colorado River, my boat mate, Bill, pulled me back into the floor of the raft where another massive wave heaved water on top of me, leaving me gasping for air.  I struggled to get back on my seat, eyes wide with fear as I noticed massive boulders jutting out of the water everywhere as we dropped into a capacious swirl of recirculating whitewater! We hit every “hole” in Deubendorff!   Having watched Tanya almost swim the notorious Deubendorff rapid, I should have had more sense than to try my hand at paddling an inflatable kayak through rough water. It seemed to me that the maneuverability of my borrowed “duckie” would be a trump card and keep me out of harms way, which was the case through the Havasu rapid and a few small riffles. The noise was deafening as I watched the 18’ raft ahead of me drop off into plumes of spray and boiling waters, indicating that the next stretch of water might be serious business for me in my tiny inflatable. They had just made it past the “standing wave” when I saw them pointing and hollering “go right”! I realized I wasn’t going to make it just before a lateral wave pounded me from the side and left me clinging to my paddle and gasping for air as I rode the rest of the savage and unforgiving water underneath my overturned kayak. I was only in the freezing water a short time before I was able to clamber back into the safety of my kayak, but the cold was shocking! Once on shore even the intense rays of the sun and dry clothes could not dim the chill that permeated throughout my body. As exciting as it was to run the river, still there was fantastic hiking to be done through the many side canyons and towering temples, such as Dox Castle down to Shinumo Creek or up Galloway Canyon and down Stone Creek. Hiking to the desert waterfalls of Thunder River, Deer Creek, Elves Chasm, Havasu and many others are a hikers dream.  As we neared 180 miles on the river, a menacing rumble grew louder, demanding everyone’s attention. The time had come to face the most violent and savage stretch of water on the river – Lava Falls. The infamous rapid is nestled below Toroweap Overlook on the North Rim where boulders have formed enormous waves and “holes” that could gobble up even the largest craft that floats the river. Duffy’s experience showed as he led the way and served as the safety boat. Then O.C’s wooden dory plummeted into the swirling water and broke unscathed through the tempestuous torrent of commotion. One by one, each oarsman pulled into the current, adrenaline rushing through their veins, the beauty of Toroweap ignored as minds focused on the task immediately ahead. They crashed through the splashing bedlam of violence engulfing the boats. Tonight there will be chilling stories of one of the canyon’s biggest rapids and the mishaps that have occurred over the years. It’s hard to keep track of days on the river but landmarks announce it’s time for our departure.  Just two short days after Lava Falls we bid our new friends and our wonderful hosts Jack and Monte farewell as they continue on to Lake Mead. For a while we watched as the fleet slowly drifted south and we pushed our way up the rim of the canyon to our awaiting vehicle. It was a bittersweet day, but the memories will live on forever.  

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